Packingistilah: istilah kemasan sederhana, atau accoridng permintaan klien. Product categories of Garment Labels for organization by distinguish membership or rank, youth groups to mark accomplishments and individuals for art or expression, maka akan sangat diperhatikan dan memberikan kutipan Patch Kain untuk referensi Anda dalam waktu Jikapurchase order sudah diterima oleh pihak penjual, maka ia menjadi dokumen yang mengikat pihak penjual dan pihak pembeli. Informasi yang tertera di dalam sebuah dokumen Purchase Order meliputi: spesifikasi barang atau jasa, COA atau TDS. jumlah barang atau jasa yang dipesan. harga satuan, total harga yang harus dibayar. Dilansirdari 99designs, lorem ipsum adalah teks dummy yang digunakan sebagai penentu tempat teks dalam sebuah desain. 100+ istilah dalam dunia desain grafis. Source: www.kurnio.com. Dalam istilah lain, desain grafis mengkomunikasikan ide atau pesan tertentu melalui visual atau penglihatan. Beberapa istilah desain grafis yang wajib kamu tahu: Inilahistilah dalan garment dan hal lain yang berhubungan erat dengan istilah dalan garment serta aspek K3 secara umum di Indonesia. Training Sertifikat Operator Forklift istilah-istilah asing yang ada dalam forklift. 6. Mengetahui cara mengoprasikan bagian-bagian yang penting dari forklift. MATERI TRAINING YANG BIASA DI LAKUKAN 1. QualityControl atau yang sering disebut dengan QC adalah seseorang yang bertanggung jawab untuk mengontrol kualitas dalam line produksi. Apalagi dalam dunia industri yang semakin berkembang, menuntut hasil produk yang bersaing dan berkualitas. cara mengirim al fatihah untuk seseorang yang masih hidup. Ada banyak sekali sektor industri yang populer di Indonesia, salah satunya adalah industri garmen. Pakaian yang kita kenakan sehari-hari merupakan salah satu contoh produk akhir yang dihasilkan oleh sektor industri ini. Nah, berikut ini pembahasan lebih lanjut mengenai industri garmen yang harus Anda ketahui! Apa Itu Industri Garmen? Sumber Gambar 1 Sederhananya, garmen adalah sektor industri yang berhubungan dengan proses pembuatan pakaian dari kain hingga jadi produk siap pakai dalam skala besar/massal. Untuk segmentasi pasarnya sendiri sangat luas, mengingat pakaian merupakan salah satu kebutuhan primer manusia. Setiap orang dari berbagai kalangan sosial dan usia selalu membutuhkan pakaian, sebab itulah industri garmen ini jadi salah satu sektor industri jangka panjang yang selalu dibutuhkan. Untuk produk garmen yang dihasilkan juga sangatlah beragam, mulai dari seragam sekolah, seragam kerja, seragam kedinasan, kemeja, kaos, berbagai jenis celana, dan beragam model pakaian lainnya. Lalu apa perbedaan antara garmen dan tekstil? Sederhananya, garmen adalah proses yang lebih berfokus pada pembuatan pakaian siap pakai atau pakaian jadi. Sementara, industri tekstil mencakup keseluruhan proses produksi pakaian mulai dari tahap pengolahan seratnya hingga pakaian jadi. Istilah dalam Industri Garmen Garmen adalah salah satu sektor manufaktur yang besar, sama seperti sektor industri lainnya disini digunakanlah beberapa istilah-istilah khusus. Sebenarnya, istilah dalam dunia garmen sendiri ada banyak sekali. Namun, kita akan membahas beberapa istilah umumnya saja yang paling kerap digunakan, diantaranya adalah Accessories material tambahan yang digunakan sebagai pelengkap pakaian. Contohnya saja kancing, resleting, dan sejenisnya. BOM merupakan singkatan dari Bill of Material atau daftar bahan baku yang diperlukan untuk membuat pakaian. BOM ini biasanya disiapkan oleh merchandiser pabrik. Bulk nama lain dari mass production alias produksi dalam skala besar, sesuai dengan permintaan buyer. Consumption istilah yang merujuk pada banyaknya penggunaan material dalam satu garmen. Finished Goods sebutan untuk produk jadi, produk yang sudah dalam kondisi siap jual ke pasaran. Inspection istilah untuk aktivitas inspeksi atau pengecekan, salah satu contohnya adalah pengecekan material. Bahan Baku Utama yang Kerap Digunakan dalam Industri Garmen Sebenarnya bahan baku manufaktur garmen sendiri sangat banyak sekali, apalagi tiap jenisnya punya variasi warna dan spesifikasi yang berbeda. Tapi, secara umum ada 3 bahan baku pokok yang pasti selalu digunakan dalam industri garmen, diantaranya adalah Kain bahan baku utama, kain ini beraneka ragam. Mulai dari linen, satin, katun, wol, polyester, dan sejenisnya. Benang merupakan komponen yang tak kalah penting, meskipun bukan bahan baku utama layaknya kain namun benang memegang peranan penting dalam proses produksinya. Aksesoris bisa berupa kancing, resleting, dan berbagai perlengkapan lainnya yang dibutuhkan dalam proses produksi pakaian. Tahapan Produksi dalam Industri Garmen Sumber Gambar 2 Tahapan industri dalam manufaktur garmen adalah sebagai berikut Receiving Fabrics tahap penerimaan gulungan kain yang akan jadi bahan baku utama dalam proses produksi. Kain ini akan disimpan dan di stock dalam gudang khusus, sebelum akhirnya diambil untuk digunakan. Fabric Relaxing proses relaksasi kain, bisa dilakukan secara manual atau menggunakan bantuan mesin. Apabila ditemukan adanya kecacatan, maka kain tersebut akan dikembalikan ke supplier untuk retur. Spreading & Form Layout proses pembentangan kain untuk mengidentifikasi adanya kecacatan. Laying peletakan pola kertas di atas lembaran kain sebelum dipotong. Proses ini membutuhkan tingkat ketelitian yang tinggi mengingat sedikit kesalahan bisa berakibat fatal pada hasil cuttingnya. Marking proses menandai kain sesuai dengan pola yang telah dimiliki. Cutting proses pemotongan kain, dilakukan dengan sangat hati-hati mengingat jika ada kesalahan sifatnya permanen dan kain akan jadi “cacat” sehingga tak dapat digunakan kembali. Embroidery dan Screen Printing proses bordir dan sablon sesuai dengan permintaan pembeli. Sewing tahap penjahitan kain oleh operator jahit. Biasanya dalam pabrik garmen, setiap operator akan menjahit bagian pakaian yang sama. Kemudian, hasilnya akan diteruskan ke operator lain. Hal ini sangat berguna untuk mempercepat waktu pekerjaan, dan peningkatan efisiensi serta efektivitas. Checking proses Quality Control QC atau pengecekan pakaian apakah sudah bagus atau belum dan apakah sudah sesuai dengan standar atau belum. Jika belum, pakaian tersebut akan dikembalikan untuk diperbaiki terlebih dahulu. Spot Cleaning dan Laundry proses pembersihan pakaian jika ada noda yang menempel. Fusing dan Pressing tahap peleburan dan pengepresan, biasanya dilakukan dengan menyetrika pakaian jadi tersebut menggunakan setrika uap/jenis setrika lainnya. Packaging dan Shipping tahapan terakhir, proses pengemasan dan pengiriman ke konsumen. Pengertian Kualitas Quality/kualitas/mutu dalam industri garmen dapat didefinisikan sebagai kesesuaian produk atau hasil akhir dibandingkan dengan standar atau spesifikasi tertentu serta pencapaian nilai kepuasan konsumen atas produk. Untuk membandingkan kualitas produk dengan standar yang diinginkan maka dapat dilakukan dengan cara Pemeriksaan inspection secara visual Pengukuran measurement Tes pakai fitting Pengujian laboratorium laboratorium test. Quality Control QC Quality Control adalah upaya pengendalian mutu selama proses produksi, menjaga produksi berjalan sesuai dengan standard mutu yang telah ditetapkan dalam rangka untuk menghasilkan produk akhir yang baik sesuai standard yang telah ditetapkan. Memeriksa hasil produksi dari awal proses sampai hasil jadi untuk memastikan kesesuaian dengan standar kualitas yang telah ditentukan. Quality Assurance QA Quality Assurance QA dapat didefinisikan sebagai berikut Upaya memberikan penjaminan bahwa proses produksi dapat memenuhi kriteria dan ketentuan yang telah disepakati untuk menghasilkan produk yang baik. Suatu usaha dalam mencegah kesalahan atau pun cacat pada produk manufaktur, menghindari permasalahan dalam menyediakan produk atau layanan kepada pelanggan. Definisi menurut ISO 9000 adalah sebagai “bagian dari manajemen mutu yang berfokus pada pemberian keyakinan bahwa persyaratan mutu akan dipenuhi”. QA/QC QA/QC adalah kombinasi dari penjaminan kualitas QA, proses atau serangkaian proses yang digunakan untuk mengukur dan memastikan kualitas suatu produk, dan pengendalian kualitas QC, proses untuk memastikan produk dan layanan memenuhi harapan konsumen. QA berorientasi pada proses dan berfokus pada pencegahan kerusakan, sedangkan QC berorientasi pada produk dan berfokus pada identifikasi cacat defect. Defect/Cacat Defect adalah ketidaksempurnaan/kesalahan/kerusakan/penyimpangan suatu produk dari spesifikasi/standar yang ditetapkan. Hal ini bisa disebabkan karena kesalahan dalam penanganan bahan baku, proses produksi, proses akhir produksi atau kesalahan dari faktor yang lain. Defect dapat diklasifikasikan menjadi tiga macam yaitu Critical defect cacat kritis Major defect cacat mayor Minor defect cacat minor Critical Defect Critical defect adalah cacat yang tidak bisa diterima atau ditolak reject. Critical defects adalah segala sesuatu yang dapat membahayakan bagi si pemakai produk. Berikut ini adalah beberapa contoh critical defects Terdapat benda tajam patahan jarum, staples, rivets, kawat, pins, dll. Tidak memenuhi unsur keamanan untuk produk bayi dan semua yang berhubungan dengan CPSC Consumer Product Safety Commission Pada produk bayi dan anak-anak, komponen yang longgar seperti kancing, snaps, batu aksesoris stone, dan lain-lain. Benang, tali atau sisa benang tidak terpotong trims yang terlalu panjang atau longgar yang dapat membahayakan bayi atau anak. Apabila ditemukan critical defect pada audit maka rijek dan harus diperiksa semuanya 100%. Major Defect Major defect adalah cacat yang tampak atau terlihat dengan jelas dan bisa berdampak terhadap kelayakan jual. Defect dapat berasal dari bahan baku kain, bahan bantu aksesoris, atau kesalahan proses produksi. Cacat jenis ini umumnya tidak bisa atau sulit untuk diperbaiki. Contoh major defect Bolong, sobek Jahitan putus, loggar/kencang/kerut di zona a Noda minyak di zona a Ukuran tidak sesuai spesifikasinya Dll. Minor Defect Minor defect adalah cacat yang tidak terlalu kentara terlihat apalagi bagi konsumen awam sehingga bisa dikatakan tidak sampai mengakibatkan penurunan mutu produk secara langsung. Cacat jenis ini umumnya dapat diperbaiki. Contoh minor defect Hasil perbaikan yang tidak bagus Slub lebih kecil dari ¼” Skip 1 stitch pada blind stitch Ujung benang tidak terpotong lebih kecil dari ½” Benang menempel kotor. Zona Defect Pada pemeriksaan secara visual, zona A adalah area pakaian yang paling terlihat di mana mata akan fokus ketika pakaian dikenakan. Zona B adalah area lain dari pakaian di mana defect mungkin tidak akan terlalu terlihat dan tidak begitu berdampak pada tampilan pakaian. Zona C adalah area paling tidak terlihat dan kecil sekali dampaknya pada tampilan, contohnya area bagian dalam pakaian. Defect pada zona A dianggap lebih serius dibandingkan pada zona B, Defect pada zona B dianggap lebih serius dibandingkan pada zona C. Terdapat beberapa pengecualian mengenai zona defect dan hal ini kembali lagi tergantung dari permintaan atau ketentuan yang ditetapkan buyer, misalnya Hanya berlaku zona A dan B tidak ada zona C Tidak ada Zona B dan C pada celana dan rok dengan panjang 23” ke bawah jika diukur dari bawah pinggang. Tidak ada Zona B dan C untuk pakaian dalam dan celana dalam. Contoh Defect Defect dapat berasal dari bahan baku kain dan bahan penunjang benang dan aksesoris selain juga terjadi karena kesalahan saat proses produksi. Defect Kain Yaitu defect yang ditemukan pada kain bahan, biasanya terjadi pada saat proses pembuatan kain tekstil. Slub, neps, holes, sobek, handfeel, odor Color shading Staining, minyak, cacat printing Inkonsistensi lebar, bowing, skewing. Cacat pakan dan lusi kosong Cacat tenun/rajut Defect Aksesoris Yaitu defect pada aksesoris, baik dari materialnya yang rusak atau pun karena kesalahan dalam mengaplikasikan saat produksi garmen. Cacat aplikasi Ketidaksesuaian disain, warna, detail Ketidaktepatan pemposisian kode. Defect pada Cutting Defect yang ditemukan pada proses cutting. Ketidak-sesuaian ukuran dan kualitas potongan Color shading Kekurangan komponen cutting panel. Defect Assembling/Sewing Defect yang terjadi pada proses jahit. Defectives Stitching Jahitan putus/loncat/ngambang Puckering , Bubling kerut/menggembung Open seam ketidak-sempurnaan joint antar panel/jahitan putus atau terbuka Frying fabrics tepi kain terurai Staining noda kotor Measurement discrepancies penyimpangan ukuran Fitting tidak sesuai Defect Finishing dan Packing Defect karena kesalahan pada proses finishing dan packing. Kesalahan pemasangan hang tag Kesalahan packing method Shining akibat kesalahan steaming Trimming tidak bersih lebih panjang dari 2,5 cm Staining noda kotor Pemeriksaan Inspection Pemeriksaan/pengecekan/pengujian dilakukan dalam setiap tahapan proses, dari pembuatan sample, pengadaan bahan baku kain dan aksesoris, proses potong cutting, jahit sewing, finishing, dan pengemasan packing. Sample Pengecekan sample dilakukan untuk memastikan kesesuaian sample dengan keinginan pemesan buyer. QC mengecek sample berdasarkan permintaan sample request dan comment buyer. Memastikan sample yang dibuat oleh bagian sample bebas dari cacat, kerusakan, penyimpangan atau ketidak sesuain baik desain, mutu jahitan, ukuran, warna, dan lain sebagainya. Hal-hal yang perlu diperiksa antara lain Bentuk dan konstruksi garmen sesuai permintaan Penggunaan bahan dan aksesoris sesuai spesifikasi Ukuran sesuai dengan spesifikasi Fitting proporsional sesuai permintaan Workmanship atau kualitas pengerjaan. Prosedur pemeriksaan sampel Pemeriksa akan menerima sample dan lembar pemeriksaan dari petugas bagian sample Lembar rencana kerja worksheet dan contoh produk garmen yang akan diproduksi dibuat oleh petugas bagian sample & merchandiser diserahkan ke bagian pemeriksa Pemeriksa akan memeriksa dan memberi komentar/koreksi terhadap sample pada lembar pemeriksaan work-sheet dan menyerahkan kembali kepada merchandiser. Merchandiser mempelajari catatan kualitas mutu dan memutuskan diproduksi atau ditolak dan dikembalikan ke bagian sample untuk dibuat sampel ulang. Jika sample disetujui oleh merchandiser maka sample tersebut akan dikirim oleh merchandiser ke pihak pembeli guna mendapatkan persetujuan, sesuai permintaan atau tidak approval sample Pemeriksaakan menerima salinan atau copy laporan pemeriksaan sample dari merchandiser. Sampel yang telah disetujui pihak pembeli approval sample dikembalikan ke bagian produksi untuk diproduksi secara massal. Bahan Fabric Setiap bahan yang datang harus dilakukan pengecekan dan sejumlah pengujian untuk memastikan spesifikasi dan kualitas sesuai permintaan. Pengecekan yang dilakukan terhadap bahan kain diantaranya Inspeksi kain fabric inspection Kesesuaian warna color approval, shade matching Kemiringan/kelengkungan benang pakan skewing/bowing Tes susut kain shrinkage test Berat kain fabric weight test Panjang dan lebar kain roll length and width Pegangan kain handfeel Dll. Inspeksi Kain Fabric Inspection Yaitu pemeriksaan kain secara visual menggunakan mesin inspeksi atau manual di atas meja untuk mengecek dan mengidentifikasi adanya defect kain sebelum release ke proses cutting. Setiap temuan defect ditandai dan diberi poin penalty dengan menggunakan metode 4-point system atau 10-point system. Inspeksi kain dilakukan minimal 10% dari total rol per lot per warna. Apabila hasil inspeksi rijek maka dilakukan lagi pengecekan dengan persentase lebih besar. Apabila hasil inspeksi tetap rijek, biasanya kain dikembalikan ke supplier kain atau dilakukan pengecekan 100% untuk disortir dan dibuatkan marker khusus special marker pada proses cutting. 4-Point System Aturannya adalah sebagai berikut Panjang defect kurang dari 3 inchi 8 cm diberi poin 1 Defect 3-6 inchi 8-15 cm diberi poin 2 Defect 6-9 inchi 15-23 cm diberi poin 3 Defect lebih besar dari 9 inchi 23 cm diberi poin 4 Defect lubang atau bolong diberi poin 4 Terdapat 2 defect dalam satu yard diberi poin 4 Maksimal points untuk setiap roll adalah 20 points per 100 yds2 sesuai permintaan atau standar tertentu Maksimal points untuk semua roll adalah 13 points per 100 yds2 sesuai permintaan atau standar tertentu Rumus 4 point system Poin / 100 yds2 = total poin per rol x 100 x 36 / panjang kain yang diinspeksi dalam yard x lebar kain dalam inchi Shade Matching Shade matching adalah usaha membandingkan kesamaan warna kain dalam satu rol dan lot yang sama. Hal ini dilakukan untuk mengecek seberapa jauh shading warna belang pada bahan sehingga bisa diantisipasi saat cutting. Biasanya dilakukan dengan memotong kain 20 x 20 cm pada ujung, tengah, pangkal, dan pinggir kain untuk kemudian dilihat seberapa jauh perbedaan warnanya. Shading warna yang tidak masuk standar toleransi akan ditandai dan dibuatkan special marker. Fabric Skewing Skewing atau kemiringan adalah perbedaan tinggi antara ujung kanan dan kiri kain bila ditarik garis lurus mendatar. Rumus skewing Skewing % = Selisih tinggi ujung kanan dan kiri kain x 100 / lebar kain Umumnya toleransi skewing yang diperbolehkan adalah 3%. Fabric Bowing Bowing adalah perbedaan tinggi pada tengah kain bila ditarik garis lurus. Rumus bowing Bowing % = Selisih tinggi pada bagian tengah kain x 100 / lebar kain Umumnya toleransi bowing yang diperbolehkan adalah 3%. Shrinkage Test Shrinkage test pengecekan susut dilakukan untuk mengetahui persentase susut kain setelah relax dari gulungan/rol dan washing. Kain uji diberi tanda garis 50 x 50 cm2, cek ukurannya setelah direlaksasi, steam dan washing. Apabila persentase penyusutan kain ini tinggi, biasanya akan dilakukan optimalisasi proses relaks kain atau penambahan ukuran size specification. Fabric Weight Fabric weight atau berat kain diukur untuk memastikan kesesuaian bahan yang akan digunakan dengan standar yang sudah ditentukan. Makin berat suatu bahan biasnya main tebal dan sebaliknya. Fabric weght akan di cek dengan punch dan ditimbang, setidaknya sekali selama pengecekan pada bagian tengah, kanan dan kiri kain. Toleransi fabric weight yang diterima biasanya adalah +/-5%. Roll Length Perbedaan panjang kain terhadap PO akan dicatat untuk mengantisipasi kekurangan kain. Perbedaan panjang yang diterima adalah +/-2% Roll Width Lebar kain akan dicek minimal 3 kali, yaitu di awal, tengah dan akhir roll. Toleransi biasanya +3% dari cuttable sesuai lebar marker. Tidak ada toleransi lebih kecil dari lebar cuttable. Color Approval Warna, print dan motif kain dicek berdasarkan approval kain standar sesuai pesanan buyer/customer. Fabric Odor & Handfeel Tidak ada toleransi untuk kain yang berbau busuk. Tidak ada toleransi untuk handfeel, sesuai approval. Pengecekan Aksesoris Memastikan aksesoris yang akan digunakan sesuai spesifikasi dan dalam kondisi yang baik dalam tiap bulk production. Contoh aksesoris antara lain label, kancing, zipper, polibag, boks karton, benang, dll. Inspeksi minimal 10% dari total kedatangan, jika ditemukan defect lebih dari 10% maka aksesoris dikembalikan ke supplier atau dilakukan pengecekan 100% disortir. Label Membandingkan label dengan standar approval. Hal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan pada label antara lain jenis bahan, ukuran label, tulisan art work, dan warna. Pengecekan Zipper Pengecekan zipper sesuai approval, diantaranya warna, ukuran toleransi ± 3/16”, fungsional open/closed ketahanan warna/cat pada puller & stopper. Pengecekan Bok Pengacekan dilakukan terhadap; ukuran, tulisan artwork dan kekuatan perporasi. Pengecekan Kancing Membandingkan dengan approval sample, antara lain warna, ukuran, dan posisi dan jumlah lubang. Pengecekan Benang Pengecekan warna, nomer atau ukuran, dan jenis benang sesuai dengan approval sample. Pengecekan Elastic Pengecekan sesuai dengan approval sample warna, ukuran, dan kelenturan atau elastisitas. Pengecekan Cutting Pengecekan di bagian Cutting dilakukan untuk memastikan hasil cutting sesuai dengan pattern. Pemeriksa bagian potong mengecek gelaran kain, gelaran tidak bergelombang, tidak melipat, gelaran bagian bawah sampai atas harus sama, tidak ada penyusutan kain, hasil potongan kemudian dicek dan harus sesuai dengan sample dan toleransi ukuran. Proses pengecekan di Cutting antara lain Pengecekan marker Pengecekan gelaran Pengecekan hasil potongan Pengecekan hasil fusing Pengecekan Marker Setiap pattern baru yang akan turun produksi diperiksa kesesuaian ukurannya berdasarkan size spec. Pengecekan yang dilakukan antara lain Kesesuaian style Quantity garment sesuai dengan ratio marker Kelengkapan panel Penyusunan panel pada marker bila ada permintaan khusus seperti matching, one way cut, dll. Ukuran panel sesuai pattern Lebar marker disesuaikan dengan lebar cuttable kain Arah panel pada marker. Pengecekan Gelaran Pengecekan yang dilakukan diantaranya Ketebalan gelaran Kain motif printing harus bertemu atau matching sesuai permintaan Arah printing satu arah Pengecekan Hasil Potongan Cutting Hasil cutting diperiksa dibandingkan terhadap pattern. Pada tumpukan bagian atas, tengah dan bawah untuk setiap meja. Untuk jenis style garmen yang harus matching maka perlu dicek 100% panel yang harus matching tersebut. Bila ada panel reject maka harus diganti dengan potongan panel yang baru. Secara umum pengecekan yang dilakukan antara lain Bentuk dan ukuran panel sesuai pattern Quality potong Quality kain Shading Matching panel Kartu identitas panel dengan isi per bundle Prosedur pemeriksaan bagian potong Inspection Cutting antara lain Melakukan pemeriksaan lembar kain bagian atas sampai lembar bagian bawah Melakukan pemeriksaan kelengkapan pola pada kertas marker Melakukan pemeriksaan setiap garis komponen apakah terdapat kesalahan potong atau tidak Melakukan pemeriksaan interlining dengan pola bila komponen garmen menggunakan interlining dan bordir Melakukan pencatatan dan pemotongan ulang, bila terjadi kesalahan potong Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap mutu kain yang meliputi kontruksi, warna, corak/motif, tekstruk bagian luar dan bagian dalam kain. Melakukan pemeriksaan pada marker, apakah rasio ukuran sudah memenuhi seluruh ukuran yang dipesan Melakukan pemeriksaan mutu hasil gelaran/spreading apakah bahan yang digelar sudah benar benar lurus / rata dan tidak bergelombang Melakukan pemeriksaan terhadap metode pemotongan cutting Melakukan pemeriksaan mutu hasil potongan, apakah seluruh hasil potong sudah benar benar sesuai dengan pola asli original pattern yang diberikan oleh pemesan/buyers Melakukan pemeriksaan mutu hasil potong, apakah potongan komponen benar benar sesuai matching dan balance untuk corak bahan bergaris atau berkotak Pengecekan hasil bagian fusing Fusing adalah proses merekatkan bahan pelapis Interfasing pada komponen-komponen kecil seperti kerah, manset, lapisan leher, belahan, melalui proses pemanasan pengepresan/penyeterikaan. Hal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan antara lain Jenis komponen yang akan difusing sesuai approval sample Jenis interlining Penyetelan mesin berdasarkan rekomendasi dari supplier interlining Ukuran panel setelah di-fusing Warna panel setelah di-fusing Prosedur pemeriksaan bagian fusing antara lain Memeriksa hasil fusing, apakah terdapat gelembung/udara, apakah sudah memenuhi standar atau belum Memeriksa hasil fusing pada bahan bergaris atau berkotak,apakah hasilnya benar benar lurus dan stabil Memeriksa interlining yang digunakan, apakah sudah sesuai dengan yang ditentukan oleh buyer. Melakukan pemeriksaan mutu hasil fusing sebelum dan sesudah pencucian. Apakah mengalami perubahan warna dan ukuran. Pengecekan pada Sewing dan Finishing Pemeriksaan kualitas pada proses assembling sewing sebaiknya dilakukan pada tiap tahapan proses, hal ini untuk menghindari terjadinya kesalahan yang semakin parah. Berikut contoh QC yang bertugas mengontrol kualitas produksi sewing QC line mengecek hasil produksi di line sewing, QC finishing mengecek hasil produksi setelah finishing, QC in-process mengecek proses sewing dan hasil akhir garmen. QC Line Line awal depan, QC melakukan pengecekan terhadap SPI jumlah setikan per inchi Jahitan wokmanship Cutting way Shading Bentuk garment QC Finishing Melakukan pemeriksaan antara lain Tampilan Jahitan Kelengkapan aksesoris Workmanship Ukuran garment Dll. QC In-Proses QC in-proses melakukan pengecekan pilot run sebanyak 20 pcs size M. QC in-proses melakukan pengecekan terhadap operator sewing meliputi Gauge alat bantu jahit, corong Margin Ukuran operator Tension benang Accessories berdasarkan Trim Card Hasil garment berdasarkan approval sample workmanship dan aethestic Pola dan hasil cutting. QC in-proses melakukan pengukuran berdasarkan AQL Acceptable Quality Level. Pre-Final dan Final Audit Pre-Final Inspection Pre-final inspection dilakukan untuk memastikan seberapa jauh kesiapan dan persiapan untuk dilakukan final-audit inspection. Umumnya Pre-Final Inspection dilakukan setelah produksi manghasilkan output minimal 20%, dengan sampling yang dicek sebanyak 20 pcs. Pre-Final juga dapat dilakukan setelah garmen ada yang sudah di-packing berdasarkan AQL 4,0 atau sesuai keinginan buyer. Inspeksi pada pre-final antara lain Packing audit Workmanship Measurement Kelengkapan aksesoris Bentuk garment berdasarkan approval sample dan sample comment. Fitting Dll. Packing Audit Packing audit biasanya dilakukan oleh QA bersamaan proses Pre-Final berdasarkan AQL 2,5. Pengecekan dilakukan terhadap Shipping mark Ratio packing Check digit Accessories packing Quality carton box Ukuran karton Final Audit Inspection Final audit adalah proses pemeriksaan akhir untuk menentukan kelayakan hasil produksi baik secara kualitas maupun kuantitas memenuhi minimum persyaratan standar yang sudah ditentukan. Final audit dilakukan untuk menentukan apakah hasil produksi sudah layak untuk release pengiriman. Syarat final audit dapat dilakukan biasanya adalah proses produksi sudah selesai 100% dan minimal 80% sudah di-packing. Biasanya dilakukan oleh QC independent yang sudah disepakati atau QC buyer. Pengecekan Final Audit sama seperti dengan saat melakukan proses Pre-Final. Measurement audit AQL Workmanship AQL untuk ekspor untuk lokal Packing audit AQL Abrasion Resistance The ability of a fabric to withstand loss of appearance or surface through surface wear or rubbing. Acrylic Fiber Generic name for man made fibers derived from polyacrylonitrile. Features a soft , woolly hand ; wash and wear performance ; brilliant high shade colors ; good sunlight and wrinkle resistance. Air Jet Spinning During Air Jet Spinning yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process , the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size , then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted , first in one direction , then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation. Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers experienced in Open End Spinning in place. Fewer loose polyester fibers means less pilling. Argyle A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shaped pattern. Banded Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to tee shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves Basketweave A variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns weave alike in both the warpVertical and Filling Horizontal directions. The name probably derives from the similarity to basket work structures. The weave produces a rather LOOSE construction. Berber A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear Bird's-eye A pattern that resembles a bird’s eye. Buckram backing Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery, edges. Burguntal Cloth Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection. Byron Collar Collar with large points and not much of a roll; named after the English poet Lord Byron. Cap Sleeves Sleeve type used mainly in ladies styles but is also used in unisex styles. Standard tee sleeve length is approximately to the elbow. Cap sleeves would fall midway between the elbow and the shoulder. Carded Cotton Yarn that has been cleaned, aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ringspinning. Carding Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made into more parallel-untwisted strand called SLIVERS. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short or broken fibers. Center line/ Center Crease Helps line up garment for screenprint or - if line is not actually centered,it is more difficult to center logo. Chevron A zigzag stitch VERY similar to Herringbone Colorfast A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the “normal” life of the garment. Constructed Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Coolmax Certification mark of the Dupont Company, for knitted fabrics made of POLYESTER fibers that are grooved on the outside to facilitate better wicking and moisture evaporation. Cordura Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn. Core Vents Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor. Cotton Cotton is named for a shrubby plant genus Gossypium of the MALLOW family, for the fibers surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton is tropical in origin but is now cultivated worldwide. It has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times. Coverseaming/Coverstitching Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. looks similar to double needle stitching Crocking The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped a pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. With the PIGMENT dye process this can occur if the garment is NOT washed before worn. CrossWinds Lightweight wind protection. CrossWinds shells are extremely packable and compressible. Denier Is to polyester as Singles is to cotton, however with Denier, the SMALLER the number of denier the THINNER the strand of polyester and the LARGER the number the THICKER the strand of polyester. This is the OPPOSITE of singles. Dobby When weaving fabric - geometric shapes are woven into the weaving pattern. DryPoint ™ Semi-Oxford A modified basket weave of 100% Nylon coated with Ether-based Poly Urethane. Extremely durable and absolutely waterproof. End-On-End An alternating color or striped effect. Enzyme Wash A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like PIGMENT DYE. Four-needle stitching Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants. French Placket Is to woven shirts as a set-on placket is to staff shirts. Glen Plaid Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric. Graded Collar The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt. Greige Gray Goods Knitted or woven fabrics of all fibers in an unfinished state, after they have been woven and before dyeing or finishing. Grommet An eyelet of firm material ex Metal to strengthen or protect an opening. Gusset Insert as in the sleeve seam or side panel - Crossgrain crew to widen and strengthen. Hand The “feel” of a fabric or print. Heather Blended fibers combined to create a vari-colored effect; heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 3 fibers cotton, polyester or rayon. In any of the garments that ALPHA carries an ASH or BIRCH or Heather Grey, Steel Grey, Light Steel, etc. The name may vary per mill these colors are NEVER 100% Cotton. Another fiber MUST be added with the cotton in order to achieve the necessary color. PLEASE NOTE If a fabric contains 95% cotton it can be LEGALLY labeled 100% cotton, however, the mills that ALPHA carries will state the proper content on the garment label for these colors. HyventMicro Failleweave A 100% coated Nylon flat ribbed fabric that is waterproof, windproof and very breathable with excellent abrasion and durability characteristic. Treated with a Durable Water Repellant finish to shed water. Interlock Double knit construction makes this the heaviest of the 3 to a Jersey knit except both front and back of the fabric look is the tightest weave, gives the smoothest surface and the finest hand. Jacquard A design or pattern in the fabric and/or collar Kangaroo Pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the Middle.See Also muff pocket Kasha lining A lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation chambray back Knapping Refers to the inside of a fleece garment. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give a very soft hand. Kodel Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Co. Lisle Yarn Refers to type of yarn. This type of yarn has a soft hand is a very fine count singles and is 2 ply. Low Profile Any crown of a cap that is LESS than 4” in height. Not to be confused with DO have low profile caps that are STRUCTURED. Lyocell Generic name for TENCEL Marled Yarn Twisting a solid color yarn with a yarn of various colors to create a varied color effect. Medium Weight Classification for fabric of 22 to 24 single yarn, where the number of yarn denotes the overall fabric weight. Melton Wool A heavily felted non-lustrous fabric. The heaviest type is used in outerwear. Mercerization Treatment for fabric cotton yarn or cloth that swells the fiber and gives it LUSTER or shine. Slightly preshrinks yarn and makes it stronger. This also helps with dye acceptance and improves fabric absorbency. Moleskin Supposed to simulate fur of a mole. Carded cotton is knapped or brushed and then sheared for smoothness to provide a suede fur effect. MTR Fleece™ Maximum Thermal Retention A non-pilling, 100% polyester fleece that provides a soft, warm insulating layer. Weighing about half as much as wool, MTR Fleece™ is quick drying and remains warm even when wet. Muff pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle. See also kangaroo pocket Nailhead A woven in or engineered design. Neoprene A generic name for a type of synthetic rubber. Nu-Blend Jerzees Trademark process of spinning yarn that virtually eliminates pilling. Omni-Dry™ Process keeps you dry and warm whatever the activity by drawing moisture to the fabric face where it wicks across the surface and evaporates. The rate of evaporation increases with the amount of moisture. Open End Spinning A system of spinning based on the concept of introducing twist to the yarn by rotating the yarn end at a gap in the flow of fibers between the delivery system and the yarn package; a much faster operation than ring spinning. Open-end yarn has a coarser hand than ring spun cotton. Oxford A modified plain or weave. Can be striped or checked by using groups of various colored yarn. Piece Dyed This term is used when the knitted cloth is dyed, prior to being assembled into a finished product. Pilling Accumulation of fibers on the surface of a fabric, caused by wear and washing. In 50/50 fabric, cotton fibers tear and become tangled with the stronger fibers on the surface of the higher cotton content results in less pilling. Pima Cotton Refers to type of cotton. Originally grown by the Pima Indians in the South West part of the United States. It’s natural color is yellow as opposed to white for other cotton. It’s a very fine, long staple refers to the length of the individual fibers cotton. It is a very soft and strong fiber that accepts dye well. Pinwale A very narrow ridge or rib in a fabric from 16 to 23 wales to the inch EX Pinwale corduroy. Pique Pee-kay A knit sometimes called LaCoste because that company popularized its a distinct right and wrong right side resembles a Honey Comb or a waffle and the wrong side is flat and a course firm hand an generally uses fine yarns. Placket A slit extending down the front of a shirt from the neck. The slit is usually secured with buttons Poly Nosic Type of fabric that has a TWILL texture with a VERY soft “silk like” feel. This fabric will also protect against 95% of the UV rays from the sun. Quarter Turning Eliminates the center line by rotating the shirt at 900 so that the fold line is then under the arms. Currently, imprinters like this feature because it eliminates the center line. Quilted jacket Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling. Raglan A type of sleeve sewn in with seams slanting outward from the neck to the underarm. Reinforced Placket X-Box A square or rectangular sewn area used to strengthen and reinforce the bottom of a placket. Rib knit A form of knit fabric with vertical rows of knitting loops visible on both sides of the fabric features more elasticity than jersey knit. Ring Spun Cotton Yarn produced on ring frame equipment; typically, this is a finer yarn, producing a softer hand. Ringer T-shirt, with solid body featuring ribbed crew neck and sleeve bands in a contrasting color. Ripstop Very fine woven fabric, often NYLON, with coarse, strong yarns spaced at intervals so that tears will not spread. Saddle Shoulder Variation of a raglan sleeve, where the shoulder portion forms a straight band cut in the same piece with the sleeve. It is seamed front and back parallel to the shoulder instead of at an angle as in raglan style. Seamless Tubular Collar Increases durability of collar and prevents splitting of collar seams. Self collar Collar comprised of the same type of piece goods used in the shirt body. The collar is made by sewing the two collar parts together with a lining in the center for support.As in tanks tops and ladies items Set-in Sleeves Style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. The seam is straight up and down from the shoulder seam to the underarm. as opposed to the neck in RAGLAN sleeves. Sherpa As garment is woven, the outside of the fabric is brushed with a wire brush to give the garment a very soft “fuzzy” feel. Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams. Shrinkage Rate Approximately 4 - 5 % on most 100 % garments after pre-shrinking or compacting Sitka A long-lasting, super-waterproof coating made perfect for wet weather Structured Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Tactel Trademark of the Dupont Company, for filament nylon fiber. Talkeetna Design for all-season active outdoor sports, Talkeetna shells use Core Vents and our new Hyvent waterproof/breathable coating to help keep your body cool and dry. Tencel Trademark of Courtlands. The first new fiber to be introduced in over 50 years. Made from the natural cellulose found in trees especially grown for this purpose. When one tree is harvested another is planted. Characteristics * Very strong fiber * Soft, smooth hand * Excellent DRAPE when worn * Machine washable & Dryable * Low shrinkage * Wrinkle resistance Undervisor The colored material on the bottom side of the visor. Years ago, the undervisor was always green because this color was considered easiest on the eyes. Today, however, we do have silver underbills, however, in most circumstances, the color of the undervisor matches the color of the cap. Unstructured/Unconstructed When there is no buckram in the crown of a cap. The cap only has shape when placed on the head. Visor Peak The front of the hat or cap that extends out from the front panel and acts as a sunshade. Also, a type of headwear that consists of the peak or sunshade only so that the top of the head is exposed. When referring to a full cap, visor is interchangeable with peak. V-notch Triangular 2-ply patch of material sewn to the front of the neck for decorative purposes. Waffle Stitch used in KNIT goods to produce a series of square waffle-like designs. Wales The individual loops of a course vertical rows of loops also, when referring to corduroy, the amount of ridges per inch in the fabric. Water-Repellant The characteristic of a fiber to resist wetting. Most water repellent garments have a COATING to achieve water repellence. Welted Sleeve Cuffs ONE piece of rib knit material sewn on the cuff, collar or placket of a shirt. Yarn dyeing Yarn, which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows the spinning of the yarn. Yoke A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders. Abrasion Resistance The ability of a fabric to withstand loss of appearance or surface through surface wear or rubbing. Acrylic Fiber Generic name for man made fibers derived from polyacrylonitrile. Features a soft , woolly hand ; wash and wear performance ; brilliant high shade colors ; good sunlight and wrinkle resistance. Air Jet Spinning During Air Jet Spinning yarn is made by wrapping fibers around a core stream of fibers with compressed air. In this process , the fibers are stretched to the appropriate size , then fed to the air jet chambers where they are twisted , first in one direction , then in the reverse direction in a second chamber. The yarn is stabilized after each operation. Yarn produced on Air Jet pills less because the spinning process creates a tighter outer wrap which holds typically loose polyester fibers experienced in Open End Spinning in place. Fewer loose polyester fibers means less pilling. Argyle A popular design for knitted fabrics, both hand and machine knit. Two or three colors generally are used in a diamond-shaped pattern. Banded Fabric is folded double and sewn down. Refers to tee shirt collars and staff shirt sleeves Basketweave A variation of a plain weave in which two or more yarns weave alike in both the warpVertical and Filling Horizontal directions. The name probably derives from the similarity to basket work structures. The weave produces a rather LOOSE construction. Berber A texture very similar to Sherpa, but with a heavier, more woolen texture - used for Outerwear Bird's-eye A pattern that resembles a bird’s eye. Buckram backing Stiff fabric used to give shape and form to items like caps, belts, etc. Also used to stabilize embroidery, edges. Burguntal Cloth Constructed from 100% nylon. This durable base fabric has a water repellent finish applied to the face, which prevents water drops from soaking into the back is coated with Polyurethane for added water resistance and wind protection. Byron Collar Collar with large points and not much of a roll; named after the English poet Lord Byron. Cap Sleeves Sleeve type used mainly in ladies styles but is also used in unisex styles. Standard tee sleeve length is approximately to the elbow. Cap sleeves would fall midway between the elbow and the shoulder. Carded Cotton Yarn that has been cleaned, aligned and formed into a continuous untwisted strand but has NOT gone through additional spinning processes like combing or ringspinning. Carding Preliminary process in yarn spinning. Fibers are separated and made into more parallel-untwisted strand called SLIVERS. This process also removes most of the impurities and a certain amount of short or broken fibers. Center line/ Center Crease Helps line up garment for screenprint or - if line is not actually centered,it is more difficult to center logo. Chevron A zigzag stitch VERY similar to Herringbone Colorfast A term used to describe fabrics of sufficient color retention so that no noticeable changes in shed takes place during the “normal” life of the garment. Constructed Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Coolmax Certification mark of the Dupont Company, for knitted fabrics made of POLYESTER fibers that are grooved on the outside to facilitate better wicking and moisture evaporation. Cordura Trademark of Dupont Company, for air-textured nylon yarn. Core Vents Efficiently dissipate excess body heat and perspiration vapor. Cotton Cotton is named for a shrubby plant genus Gossypium of the MALLOW family, for the fibers surrounding the seeds, and for the cloth woven from the spun fibers. Each of the seeds, which are contained in capsules, or bolls, is surrounded by white or cream-colored downy fibers that flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton is tropical in origin but is now cultivated worldwide. It has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times. Coverseaming/Coverstitching Two needles to overlap the threads underneath, reinforcing the seams with a smooth layer of threads. looks similar to double needle stitching Crocking The tendency of excess dyes to rub off. Napped a pile fabrics in deep colors are most likely to crock. Industry has set standards and tests to measure and prevent crocking. With the PIGMENT dye process this can occur if the garment is NOT washed before worn. CrossWinds Lightweight wind protection. CrossWinds shells are extremely packable and compressible. Denier Is to polyester as Singles is to cotton, however with Denier, the SMALLER the number of denier the THINNER the strand of polyester and the LARGER the number the THICKER the strand of polyester. This is the OPPOSITE of singles. Dobby When weaving fabric - geometric shapes are woven into the weaving pattern. DryPoint ™ Semi-Oxford A modified basket weave of 100% Nylon coated with Ether-based Poly Urethane. Extremely durable and absolutely waterproof. End-On-End An alternating color or striped effect. Enzyme Wash A fabric softening process that gives a soft hand to fabric and wears the color VERY slightly. Does NOT have a washed out look like PIGMENT DYE. Four-needle stitching Used to reinforce the waistband in shorts and sweatpants. French Placket Is to woven shirts as a set-on placket is to staff shirts. Glen Plaid Popular Scottish pattern for sportswear characterized by checks of two different sizes with similar color patterns. Made in many grades of fabric. Graded Collar The size of the collar changes proportionally with the size of the shirt. Greige Gray Goods Knitted or woven fabrics of all fibers in an unfinished state, after they have been woven and before dyeing or finishing. Grommet An eyelet of firm material ex Metal to strengthen or protect an opening. Gusset Insert as in the sleeve seam or side panel - Crossgrain crew to widen and strengthen. Hand The “feel” of a fabric or print. Heather Blended fibers combined to create a vari-colored effect; heather gray. Heathered fabric typically contains 3 fibers cotton, polyester or rayon. In any of the garments that ALPHA carries an ASH or BIRCH or Heather Grey, Steel Grey, Light Steel, etc. The name may vary per mill these colors are NEVER 100% Cotton. Another fiber MUST be added with the cotton in order to achieve the necessary color. PLEASE NOTE If a fabric contains 95% cotton it can be LEGALLY labeled 100% cotton, however, the mills that ALPHA carries will state the proper content on the garment label for these colors. HyventMicro Failleweave A 100% coated Nylon flat ribbed fabric that is waterproof, windproof and very breathable with excellent abrasion and durability characteristic. Treated with a Durable Water Repellant finish to shed water. Interlock Double knit construction makes this the heaviest of the 3 to a Jersey knit except both front and back of the fabric look is the tightest weave, gives the smoothest surface and the finest hand. Jacquard A design or pattern in the fabric and/or collar Kangaroo Pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the Middle.See Also muff pocket Kasha lining A lining principally for jackets featuring cotton flannel, napped face and imitation chambray back Knapping Refers to the inside of a fleece garment. Garment fabric brushed with a wire brush to give a very soft hand. Kodel Polyester fiber created and trademarked by Eastman Kodak Co. Lisle Yarn Refers to type of yarn. This type of yarn has a soft hand is a very fine count singles and is 2 ply. Low Profile Any crown of a cap that is LESS than 4” in height. Not to be confused with DO have low profile caps that are STRUCTURED. Lyocell Generic name for TENCEL Marled Yarn Twisting a solid color yarn with a yarn of various colors to create a varied color effect. Medium Weight Classification for fabric of 22 to 24 single yarn, where the number of yarn denotes the overall fabric weight. Melton Wool A heavily felted non-lustrous fabric. The heaviest type is used in outerwear. Mercerization Treatment for fabric cotton yarn or cloth that swells the fiber and gives it LUSTER or shine. Slightly preshrinks yarn and makes it stronger. This also helps with dye acceptance and improves fabric absorbency. Moleskin Supposed to simulate fur of a mole. Carded cotton is knapped or brushed and then sheared for smoothness to provide a suede fur effect. MTR Fleece™ Maximum Thermal Retention A non-pilling, 100% polyester fleece that provides a soft, warm insulating layer. Weighing about half as much as wool, MTR Fleece™ is quick drying and remains warm even when wet. Muff pocket A large front single pocket, with side openings allowing both hands to be inserted, meeting in the middle. See also kangaroo pocket Nailhead A woven in or engineered design. Neoprene A generic name for a type of synthetic rubber. Nu-Blend Jerzees Trademark process of spinning yarn that virtually eliminates pilling. Omni-Dry™ Process keeps you dry and warm whatever the activity by drawing moisture to the fabric face where it wicks across the surface and evaporates. The rate of evaporation increases with the amount of moisture. Open End Spinning A system of spinning based on the concept of introducing twist to the yarn by rotating the yarn end at a gap in the flow of fibers between the delivery system and the yarn package; a much faster operation than ring spinning. Open-end yarn has a coarser hand than ring spun cotton. Oxford A modified plain or weave. Can be striped or checked by using groups of various colored yarn. Piece Dyed This term is used when the knitted cloth is dyed, prior to being assembled into a finished product. Pilling Accumulation of fibers on the surface of a fabric, caused by wear and washing. In 50/50 fabric, cotton fibers tear and become tangled with the stronger fibers on the surface of the higher cotton content results in less pilling. Pima Cotton Refers to type of cotton. Originally grown by the Pima Indians in the South West part of the United States. It’s natural color is yellow as opposed to white for other cotton. It’s a very fine, long staple refers to the length of the individual fibers cotton. It is a very soft and strong fiber that accepts dye well. Pinwale A very narrow ridge or rib in a fabric from 16 to 23 wales to the inch EX Pinwale corduroy. Pique Pee-kay A knit sometimes called LaCoste because that company popularized its a distinct right and wrong right side resembles a Honey Comb or a waffle and the wrong side is flat and a course firm hand an generally uses fine yarns. Placket A slit extending down the front of a shirt from the neck. The slit is usually secured with buttons Poly Nosic Type of fabric that has a TWILL texture with a VERY soft “silk like” feel. This fabric will also protect against 95% of the UV rays from the sun. Quarter Turning Eliminates the center line by rotating the shirt at 900 so that the fold line is then under the arms. Currently, imprinters like this feature because it eliminates the center line. Quilted jacket Jacket featuring a lining with two or more layers and a padded filling. Raglan A type of sleeve sewn in with seams slanting outward from the neck to the underarm. Reinforced Placket X-Box A square or rectangular sewn area used to strengthen and reinforce the bottom of a placket. Rib knit A form of knit fabric with vertical rows of knitting loops visible on both sides of the fabric features more elasticity than jersey knit. Ring Spun Cotton Yarn produced on ring frame equipment; typically, this is a finer yarn, producing a softer hand. Ringer T-shirt, with solid body featuring ribbed crew neck and sleeve bands in a contrasting color. Ripstop Very fine woven fabric, often NYLON, with coarse, strong yarns spaced at intervals so that tears will not spread. Saddle Shoulder Variation of a raglan sleeve, where the shoulder portion forms a straight band cut in the same piece with the sleeve. It is seamed front and back parallel to the shoulder instead of at an angle as in raglan style. Seamless Tubular Collar Increases durability of collar and prevents splitting of collar seams. Self collar Collar comprised of the same type of piece goods used in the shirt body. The collar is made by sewing the two collar parts together with a lining in the center for support.As in tanks tops and ladies items Set-in Sleeves Style of sleeve, which is sewn into the shoulder seam. The seam is straight up and down from the shoulder seam to the underarm. as opposed to the neck in RAGLAN sleeves. Sherpa As garment is woven, the outside of the fabric is brushed with a wire brush to give the garment a very soft “fuzzy” feel. Shoulder-to-Shoulder Taping Shoulder seams, as well as neck seam are covered by tape or binding. This reinforces shoulder and neck seams, and reduces separation of the seams. Shrinkage Rate Approximately 4 - 5 % on most 100 % garments after pre-shrinking or compacting Sitka A long-lasting, super-waterproof coating made perfect for wet weather Structured Crown of a cap has Buckram to give the cap shape even when it is not being worn. Tactel Trademark of the Dupont Company, for filament nylon fiber. Talkeetna Design for all-season active outdoor sports, Talkeetna shells use Core Vents and our new Hyvent waterproof/breathable coating to help keep your body cool and dry. Tencel Trademark of Courtlands. The first new fiber to be introduced in over 50 years. Made from the natural cellulose found in trees especially grown for this purpose. When one tree is harvested another is planted. Characteristics * Very strong fiber * Soft, smooth hand * Excellent DRAPE when worn * Machine washable & Dryable * Low shrinkage * Wrinkle resistance Undervisor The colored material on the bottom side of the visor. Years ago, the undervisor was always green because this color was considered easiest on the eyes. Today, however, we do have silver underbills, however, in most circumstances, the color of the undervisor matches the color of the cap. Unstructured/Unconstructed When there is no buckram in the crown of a cap. The cap only has shape when placed on the head. Visor Peak The front of the hat or cap that extends out from the front panel and acts as a sunshade. Also, a type of headwear that consists of the peak or sunshade only so that the top of the head is exposed. When referring to a full cap, visor is interchangeable with peak. V-notch Triangular 2-ply patch of material sewn to the front of the neck for decorative purposes. Waffle Stitch used in KNIT goods to produce a series of square waffle-like designs. Wales The individual loops of a course vertical rows of loops also, when referring to corduroy, the amount of ridges per inch in the fabric. Water-Repellant The characteristic of a fiber to resist wetting. Most water repellent garments have a COATING to achieve water repellence. Welted Sleeve Cuffs ONE piece of rib knit material sewn on the cuff, collar or placket of a shirt. Yarn dyeing Yarn, which has been dyed prior to the weaving of the goods; follows the spinning of the yarn. Yoke A part of a garment fitted closely to the shoulders. 0% found this document useful 0 votes206 views10 pagesOriginal TitlePertemuan 5-Istilah – istilah dalam QC GarmentCopyright© © All Rights ReservedShare this documentDid you find this document useful?0% found this document useful 0 votes206 views10 pagesPertemuan 5-Istilah - Istilah Dalam QC GarmentOriginal TitlePertemuan 5-Istilah – istilah dalam QC GarmentJump to Page You are on page 1of 10 You're Reading a Free Preview Pages 5 to 9 are not shown in this preview. Reward Your CuriosityEverything you want to Anywhere. Any Commitment. Cancel anytime. Apakah anda adalah seorang karyawan baru sebagai Quality kontrol di industri garment manufaktur? atau kah anda pingin melamar bagian ini?Jika iya and mesti baca dulu artikel di bawah ini ,ini adalah artikel tentang contoh istilah yang di gunakan oleh Quality Control di industri garment manufaktur dalam bahasa Inggris1. SKIP STITCH ON.....-loncat2. RUN OF STITCH ON....- meleset3. FRACTURED AT.../BURDST ON...-jebol4. UNEVEN JOIN STITCH ON....-dua STITCH ON.....-jahitan putusArtikel lainnya*Bagaimana cara mengukur baju di garmen*Pertanyaan interview quality control di pabrikgarmen*6. PUCKERING AT......-jahitan mengkerut7. PLEAT SEWED AT-kelipat8. VISIBLE PLN HOLE AT....-banyak bekas jarum pinggir kain 9. NEEDLE CHEW AT...-Bekas Jarum Tumpul/bekas Dedel10. UNTIDY JOIN STITCHING AT...-Sambungan Jahitan Tidak Rata11. INCOMPLETE STITCH AT...atreyan/jahitan kurang panjang12. TWISTED AT...Melilit13. HIKING BOTTOM HEM-Klim Bawah Naik14. BUBLING/FULLNESS-Gelembung/Melendung15. UNEVEN STITCHING ON...-Stich Tidak Rata/tidak Lurus16. …..CURVE AREA NOT ROUND-Bulatan Tidak Bagus17. NOT STRAIGHT-Tidak Lurus18. POOR....SHAPE-Bentuk Jelek19. NOT FOLLOWING PATTERN/SAMPLE MISING-Tidak Sesuai Pola20. WRONG PATTERN-Salah Pola21. GATHERED STITCHING ON...-Atretan Kebanyakan22. CROOKED STITCH/WAVY,STITCHING AT...-Stitch Tidak Rata Naik Turun Besar Kecil 23. UNNECESSARY STITCHING AT...-Jahitan Tidak Perlu24. INCORECT SPACE/ TIE GAP-Bukaan Kerah Salah25. HIGH LOW-Tinggi Sebelah26. OVERLAP COLLAR GAP- Krah Tumpang Tindih27. WRONG/FAULTY-Salah28. NOSE EXTENSION- Balap29. UNEVEN-Pengambilan Jahitan Tidak Sama30. PERMANENT GREASE MARKAT-Noda Minyak Tidak Hilang31. DIRTY/ STAIN-kotor32. LUMP OF THREAD AT-Jahitan Benang Bergumpal33. UNSMOOTH CURVE ON- Bagian Bulatan/belokan Tidak Bagus34. JOIN STITCHING ON...-Ada Jahitan/ Sambungan35. SEAM GAPPING AT-Stitch Kurang Terbuka36. INSUFFICIENT STITCHING ON....BUTTON-Benang Kancing Sedikit/kurang37. UNCLEARED THREAD AT...-Benang Belum Dibersihkan38. MISS ALLINGMENT OF BAND BTTN TO FRONT BTTN- Kancing Kerah tidak Sejajar Dengan Kancing Badan39. UNBALANCE....-Tidak Jalur/ Tidak Rata40. MISS MATCH-Tidak Matching41. SEAM GRIN AT....-Stitch Terlalu Terbuka42. MISSING...Tidak Ada43. UNEVEN...LENGHT-Panjang tidak sama44. UNEVEN...WIDTH-Lebar Tidak Sama45. EXESS STITCHING AT....-Jahitan Lebih46. BUNCHED STITCHING AT...-Jahitan Bertabrakan47. SPACE-Jarak48. STAY STITCH SHOWING AT...-Jahit bantu Kelihatan49. UNSECURE....STITCH AT...-jahitan Merudul50. INCORRECT SPACE- Space Tidak Benar51. COLLAR BAND TOP STITCH-Jalur Kaki Kerah52. COLLAR SETTING STITCH SHOWING-Jahit Pasang Kerah Kelihatan Setelah Tutup Kerah53. COLLAR POINT NOT SHARP- Ujung Krah Kurang Lancip54. POOR COLLAR BAND SHAPE-Bentuk Bulatan Kaki Kerah Jelek55. COLLAR CLOSING-Tutup Kerah56. FULLNESS AROUND COLLAR-Gelembung Sekeliling Krah Bag. Badan 57. PUCKERING AROUND COLLAR-Mengkerut Sekeliling krah Bagian Depan 58. EXCESS STITCHING AT COLLAR POINT-Jahitan Lebih Pada Pucuk Krah59. SEAM GAPPING AT COLLAR TOP STITCH-Stitch Kerah Atas Belah60. NOSE IN BAND-Pasang Kerah Nonjol61. FRACTURED COLLAR POINT- balik pucuk kerah jebol62. UNSYMETRICAL AT COLLAR SETTING- pasang kerah tidak sesuai63. INCORRECT LABEL SETTING- pemasangan label tidak benar64. FAULTY LABEL-salah label65. UNEVEN LABEL SETTING- pasang label tidak rata66. LABEL OFF CENTER-label kurang SETTING SLANTING-pasang label miring68. ALLOWANCE LABEL SHOWING-pasang label balap69. MISSING LABEL-tidak ada label kelupaan 70. NOT FOLLOWING FOLDED MARK OF LABEL-tidak ikut lipatan label71. FRONT PLAKET SLATING/NOT STRAIGHT-plaket miring/ tidak lurus72. HI-LOW FRONT PLAKET- plaket panjang sebelah73. MISMACH FRONT PLAKET WITH BODY-badan dengan plaket tidak rata74. UNEVEN FRONT PLAKET TOP STITCH-stitch plaket tidak rata75. WAVY A LONG CENTER FRONT- plaket bergelombang76. INCONSISTANT BOTTON POSITION- jarak kancing tidak rata77. POOR POCKET SHAPE- bentuk kantong jelek78. INCORECT POKET BLOKING-bloking kantong tidak benar79. INCORECT POKET PLACEMENT-penempatan kantong tidak benar80. POKET SLANTING- kantong miring81. UNEVEN POKET HEM-klim kantong tidak rata82. FLAPS SHOTER ACHGER IN WIDTH THAN POKET-tutup kantong lebih kecil /panjang dari kantong83. POKET ALLOWANCE VISIBLE OUTSIDE-alowance kantong kelihatan84. PLEATIN IN POKET-pasang kantong kelipat86. EXCESS STITCHING AT POKET BLOKING- jahitan lebih pada bloking kantong86. BOX PLEAT- Ada lipatan pada jahitan kotak87. SIDE PLEAT-Ada lipatan pada jahitan samping88. UNEVEN JOINNING FRONT & BACK YOKE- sambungan bahu depan belakang tidak sama89. UNEVEN STITCHING AT BACK YOKE-stitch bahu belakang tidak rata90. BACK PLEAT OFF CENTER-Lipatan belakang tidak pas tengah91. INCORRECT PLEAT POSITION- posisi lipatan belakang salah92. POOR PLATE SHAPE-bentuk rempel belakang jelek93. 94. JOINING YOKE BACK-Sambungan belakang94. SLEVE SETTING-Pasang Tangan95. UNEVEN JOINING SLEVE & BODY- pasang tangan & badan tidak rata/tidak sama96. UNEVEN SLEVE LENGHT-panjang tangan kiri kanan tidak sama97. UNEVEN SLEVE PLAKET WIDTH-lebar plaket tangan kiri kanan tidak sama98. UNEVEN PLACKET BLOKING-blocking plaket tangan segitiga tangan 99. POOR SLEVE PLACKET SHAPE-bentuk plaket tangan GAPPING AT ARM HOLE STITCH-stitch lingkar lengan kurang GREAT ARM HOLE STITCH- stitch lingkar lengan terlalu ARMHOLE-lingkar tangan STITCH AT ARMHOLE-stik lingkar tangan tidak SIDE SEAM-klim pinggir tidak LOW SIDE SLIT-side slit tidak SIDE SLIT STITCH-stik side slit tidak rata107. RAW EDGE AT SIDE SEAM-kain kelihatan seperti jebol pada klim AT SIDE SEAM-klim pinggir ON CUFF-pasang manset AT CUFF SETTING-pasang manset CUFF SHAPE-bentuk manset HEM-jalur TOP STITCH-stik CURVE AREA NOT ROUND-bulatan manset tidak VISIBLE OUT SIDE AT CUFF TOP STITCH-stik menset CUFF WIDTH-lebar manset CUFF-manset tidak SEAM AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah tidak BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah tidak AT BOTTOM HEM-klim bawah BUTTON-salah BUTTON-kancing pecah/ BUTTON POSITION-posisi kancing BUTTON SPACING-jarak kancing tidak BUTTON STITCHUNG-kancing OF BUTTON-kancing SEWN BUTTON-kancing hanya dijahit ENOUGH THREAD AT BUTTON STITCHING-kancing kurang APART BUTTON HOLE-lubang kancing lebih BUTTON HOLE SPACING-jarak lubang kancing tidak BUTTON HOLE STITCHING-lubang kancing BUTTON HOLE-jahitan lubang kancing ke SIZE STICKER ON POLYBAG-salah BARCODE TAG-salah barcode SPACE TOO BIG/OVERLAP-tie jarak terlalu besar/tumpang OFF CENTER-plaket tidak OFF CENTER-label kurang POLYBAG-polybag IRON-gosokan minyak/kotor/ CHEW-lobang/bekas lobang EDGE-ujung OF STITCH-loncat/putus/melesetIstilah istilah Quality Control di industri garment manufaktur diatas,sering di gunakan dala penemuan cacat pada hasil produksi.

istilah istilah dalam qc garment